Swimming, 21st August 2018

Another busy afternoon session at the pool, though for a change I think there were more adults than children. Doing my USRPT set would have been a nightmare so it was just as well that I’d planned more tumble turn practice. At one point I was asked to move over so someone else could do a couple of lengths for some assessment or other and I had to swim between the lane lines. It took a few lengths to get the hang of turning without the “T”.

USRPT distance this year: 52,300m
Total distance this year: 128,950m

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Building an observatory. Construction #12

A last bit of frame building before I get onto other work. Probably getting the roof sorted so it can be made passably weatherproof.

The internal warm room wall is now in place, with a door to get in and a window to give a view into the rest of the observatory from it. I decided to raise the end wall of the warm room by 150mm to give a little more headroom, giving me a fifteen degree slope on the roof. I cut all the rafters for the warm room roof to give a generous overhang and they are also now in place.

At this point either the warm room roof has to go on, in which case I need something to cover it with to stop the weather damaging it or I need to get on with the rolling roof. My feeling is that I’m going to go for the latter, so I’ll start gathering all the necessary bits together.

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Mint19/Ubuntu 18.04 configuring arduino IDE to work with Geeetech Sanguino

Before I start work tuning my Geeetech Prusa i3 clone I thought I’d best get to the point where I can rebuild the firmware supplied by Geeetech. Their firmware appears to be based on an early version of the Marlin firmware and whilst I’d like to upgrade to the latest release in the fullness of time, getting the original to work first seems like a good plan.

I ran into an immediate problem with the 1.0.5 version of the Arduino IDE in the Mint19 and Ubuntu 18.04 repositories because it doesn’t allow me to set the Sanguino board type before I compile the code. There appears to be no fix for this but to download the latest version from the Arduino website (I have v1.8.5) and install it according to their instructions. Unfortunately it’s not quite that easy. Even the 1.8.5 version doesn’t know about the Sanguino, but unlike 1.0.5 it allows us to add some board definitions from external URLs.

After starting the IDE the first thing to do is to go to File->Preferences and near the bottom of the Settings tab there’s a box labelled “Additional Boards Manager URLs”. Into that paste https://raw.githubusercontent.com/Lauszus/Sanguino/master/package_lauszus_sanguino_index.json and click “Ok”.

Next go to Tools->Board->Boards Manager... and in the search box it should be enough to enter “sang” to find the right one: “Sanguino by Kristian Sloth Lauszus”. Clicking on “More info” brings up an “Install” button. Do the obvious 🙂 If like me you have a piece of damp string for an Internet connection, you may want to go and make yourself a drink at this point. It can take a while.

Once installed, close the window and go back to the Tools->Board menu. Sanguino should now be selectable right at the bottom of the list. After that the processor must be selected from Tools->Processor. My aluminium printer model has a 16Mhz 1284P so obviously that’s the one I chose.

Unfortunately my problems did not end there. Selecting an arduino project to open, I navigated to the firmware directory and opened Prusa_I3_A.ino. Attempting to compile the firmware throws the following errors:

Build options changed, rebuilding all
In file included from sketch/SdFile.h:27:0,
                 from sketch/cardreader.h:8,
                 from sketch/Marlin_main.cpp:44:
SdBaseFile.h:38: error: using typedef-name 'fpos_t' after 'struct'
 struct fpos_t {
        ^
In file included from sketch/Marlin.h:10:0,
                 from sketch/Marlin_main.cpp:30:
/usr/local/arduino-1.8.5/hardware/tools/avr/avr/include/stdio.h:950:33:
note: 'fpos_t' has a previous declaration here
 __extension__ typedef long long fpos_t;
                                 ^
exit status 1
using typedef-name 'fpos_t' after 'struct'

which looks like some of the firmware files use a variable name that clashes with a system name. More of that in another post.

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Building an observatory. Construction #11

Tough day at the coal face, and I felt a bit “glow in the dark” as a result. The forecast was predicting 28C and I’d not be surprised if it didn’t go a bit higher than that. However, using a sash clamp extension made life easier to hold the frame components in place whilst I fixed them and this is how far I managed to get:

Which was pretty much as far as I’d hoped to get. Obviously I now need to go back and fill in the noggings and braces, but that’s quite a trivial thing compared with getting the basic framework in place and can happen as and when I have the odd ten minutes rather than the few hours required to cut and fix all the major timber components of a wall.

Amusingly despite the yellowing grass there’s quite a clear path forming between the observatory and the workshop 🙂

I do also need to find a bit of scrap wood to prop the extensions where the roof will roll off so they don’t sag downwards.

I’ll soon have to start thinking about covering it so it doesn’t get rained on, but this summer there seems little chance of that.

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Building an observatory. Construction #10

After validating my choice of wall height there wasn’t much time left, but I was determined to make some visible change no matter how small. I had a few bits of scrap 18mm ply that used to be part of the cricket club scorer’s hut. I’ve put those on top of the joists just to give me something easier to stand on. More importantly however, I have most of one end wall in place!

It still needs some bracing and suchlike, but by this point I’d run out of charged batteries for my cordless screwdriver so I’ll get those done soon. I also cut all the wood for the other end wall.

I did consider doing the wall on the left in the bottom photo first as it would be easier to get into position first, but it will be nearly 5m long and has the support for the rolling roof rail. The “beer shack” walls are of similar construction and length (though slightly taller) and the long sides were a pig to get into place without anything to support them, so I’m hoping that having the end walls already in place will make life easier this time around.

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Geeetech Aluminium Prusa i3 clone: 3DBenchy

I should perhaps have taken some time to do some printer “tuning”, but look, it works! So clearly I want to print stuff out, not play with the innards even more!

3DBenchy (or BenchyMcBenchFace as it is now known in our family) seems to be a popular printer “stress test”, so I downloaded the STL and let the printer get on with it. I was quite impressed as the result was building up…

And not particularly disappointed with the end result, though it clearly needs some work. I’m not convinced the feed rate is quite high enough because lines show between “rows” on the base rather than merging together completely, and the line of the bow has some dents in that don’t look great.

So, ok, but not as good as it could be. Now it really is time to do some calibration, which by the looks of it may mean playing with firmware. Need to learn some more.

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Building an observatory. Construction #9

Evidence-based design always being best, between showers I managed to get the tripod and NEQ6 set up, with a bit of malformed roofing batten as a pointer that I could set at the level of the top of the 1500mm walls.

As a result I decided that I really needn’t worry about the wall height and my original design wouldn’t need changing. Obviously in the second photo there’s sky that will be obscured by the wall, but actually that’s below 30 degrees and only going to be visible for a short period of time so not really worth worrying abou?t.

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Building an observatory. Construction #8

Catching up with progress, another late evening saw all of the timbers in to support the floor. Everything that rests on the concrete blocks is wrapped in DPC material to try to prevent it drawing up any damp from the concrete.

The blocks here are the bases for my piers. It would have been embarrassing to put the timbers in and then find one or more of them fouled the piers 🙂

At the end I’ve screwed a piece of timber to the wall that faces south west to give me some idea of the finished wall height (1.5m in this case). With that in place I can try the angles out to make sure the wall isn’t too high.

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Geeetech Aluminium Prusa i3 clone, first “upgrades”

A couple of things niggled me during testing that were simple to fix so I thought I’d make a note of them here…

First, the USB connector (where the controller board connects to a PC) means that the supplied USB cable sticks out over the print bed. I bought a USB cable with a right angle “B” connector so the cable now exits vertically, keeping it away from the print area.

And moving the printer around during testing I found it a pain to keep disconnecting the PSU as it plugs straight into the controller board with a square four-way connector similar to those used on PC motherboards which is quite awkward to get at with all the other cabling. I added an extension to this cable which means I can split it from the power supply at the extension connector, leaving the one on the controller board alone.

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Geeetech Aluminium Prusa i3 clone build review

I posted a while back that I’d bought one of these to build with the children as a summer holiday project. As it turned out my son didn’t seem that interested, but my daughter has got involved with the build quite a bit.

Sit down and prepare yourself for a long read 😀

Overall I’d say I was pleased with the quality of the kit. You need to work out which of the aluminium pieces and pressed steel components are which by yourself, but almost everything else is in numbered bags (nearly fifty of them) which are referred to in the instructions. Unfortunately our instructions weren’t entirely consistent with the bag numbering, though it’s not possible to tell if the instructions are wrong or the bags were mislabelled. Perhaps because of this we ended up too short of some screws whilst lots of others were left over. We probably used the wrong length screw in some places without realising it.

The online videos showing assembly were very helpful, probably necessary in fact, as the instructions don’t give you a whole load of clues about how to assemble some parts. Even so it’s possible to get one or two pieces back-to-front without realising it. My biggest niggle with the instructions was that they leave one or two things completely unclear, partly because they don’t refer to exactly the parts that are shipped (probably an earlier version and they’ve not caught up yet). So for example it wasn’t clear which of the two sockets for the SD card and the LCD display is which and the two ribbon cables supplied to connect them up will fit either. Fortunately it doesn’t appear to do any harm if you get them the wrong way around — you just don’t get anything on the display. The instructions also refer to a version of RepetierHost way behind the current release which can be a bit confusing as some of the setup is not the same any more. It’s hardly the end of the world however. Some help with how to efficiently lay out the cables would be useful, too. There’s an awful lot of loose wire to be tidied away and not a lot of space for it where it won’t interfere with moving parts. There are no instructions about fitting the heatsinks to the stepper motor driver boards, which would probably have been helpful as I didn’t even initially realise that was what they were for.

Some care is also required with the PSU. Mains voltages are exposed to careless fingers. I shall be boxing mine up in the fullness of time.

Anyhow, everything assembled, here’s what we ended up with:

At this point it I started testing. X and Y axis travel looked good, but the Z axis kept sticking (the motors stalled) near the bottom. Rotating the guide bearings 180 degrees helped a little, but the problem was still there. I checked the lead screws and guides were true (they’re pretty good, actually) took the entire thing apart several times to no avail and eventually found that one of the couplings that connects the left-hand lead screw to the motor was faulty. The bores (one 8mm for the lead screw and one 5mm for the motor shaft) were not concentric, resulting in the lead screw oscillating and eventually binding near the bottom where there wasn’t enough play in the other components to cope. Replacing the connector resolved the problem completely and my Z axis worked correctly from then on. It’s possible to see in this image of the original connector that it isn’t square on to the motor (there’s a larger gap between the two at the top than the bottom) despite being correctly fitted.

Bed levelling went fine and I downloaded the proposed test piece (a disc about 50mm diameter and 3mm high). Printing was a total disaster! It didn’t matter how much I messed about with print speed, feed rates, extruder temperature or anything like that, I just couldn’t get a usable print. My best one ended up looking like this:

Eventually I realised that the filament wasn’t feeding through the extruder correctly. Though it comes as one unit in the kit I had to take it apart and see what was going on. This is what it looks like with the fan and heatsink removed.

The filament is supposed to feed down between the toothed wheel and an idler pulley, the teeth gripping the filament and pushing it through into the nozzle. The teeth on this one clearly weren’t gripping the filament and it was possible to pull and push the filament past without it moving.

I ended up replacing that wheel with a stainless steel one and putting a screw upside down inside the tensioning spring to preload it a little to get a reliable feed rate on the filament as measured on my desk.

Reassembled however, I was back to the start! I still couldn’t get a decent print. After lots more times around the disassembly/reassembly loop I decided to check the voltages on the stepper driver to see if the motor perhaps just wasn’t getting enough power. These allegedly ship from the factory set at 0.6V. Mine measured at 0.05V. A little adjustment raised it by…. nothing at all. More and more still gave me nothing until suddenly it jumped from 0.05V to 4.5V. Looks like the pot on the stepper driver is dead. I ordered a few more as spares and unbelievably the first one I tried out was also dead. The second one was perfect however. With everything reassembled I managed two lovely disc prints straight off the bat, so the problem was clearly two-fold. First the extruder motor wasn’t gripping the filament well enough to push it into the hot end and second it wasn’t able to push it firmly enough to keep the hot end supplied with sufficient material to create the print.

I think that’s quite enough for one post, so I’ll write up my first “proper” print in a separate post.

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