Another C++ fail

Oooh! C++20 has std::format that would allow me to easily format file modification times from std::filesystem/chrono.

Oh, allegedly it does in MSVC and Clang, but not in the C++20 support with the GCC that’s part of Mint 21.3 or the versions of Ubuntu/Debian on which it is based (which I thought was supposed to fully support C++20).

I found a workaround by using libfmt as a drop-in replacement. Unfortunately the version shipped with Mint 21.3 has a bug that means it doesn’t work for the way I want to use it — I get a compiler error. It’s fixed in a later release, but I really don’t want to get into carrying third-party libraries around.

Irritation factor eleven, Mr. Sulu. I guess I’ll have to do it the hard way then.

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OBD2 reader fail

My daughter’s Nissan is not very happy at all and showing the “Eek! Something’s wrong!” light on the dash, so I decided I’d get a cheap OBD2 reader to find out what it thinks is the problem. It’s an ELM327-type Bluetooth device that plugs into the socket and connects to an app on a tablet or phone. Or I guess on a PC/laptop if that’s what you’re after.

Only mine didn’t. On my Android phone, an Android tablet, my Linux laptop and a MacOS laptop the device would show up in a scan and I could attempt to pair with it, but after probably less than ten seconds the connection would drop. None of the four or five different apps I tried from the Play store made any difference. The red “powered up” LED shows on the unit and occasionally I get blue and green LEDs flashing which I assume is something attempting data transfer, but no dice. Not even fluffy ones.

My father-in-law has a Vauxhall Meriva (yeah, he’s the one), so I thought I’d have a try with that. Once I’d found the OBD socket (some of the trim in the centre console has to be removed because it’s “under” the electric handbrake switch), I found it worked just fine. That’s not a good sign from my point of view. Back to the Nissan.

This time I found an app that allowed the BT connection to be made within the app and I managed to get a little bit further, but the data transfer eventually timed out without telling me anything useful. Not happy.

So, I’ve decided to give a wired reader a try. No idea if it will be any better and I don’t really see why it should be, but it’s the next cheapest option.

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Memory Lane, 23rd July 2022: Heeeere’s Tommy!

Tommy tomato ๐Ÿ˜€

Tomatoes in the polytunnel, looking heathly. About forty plants in all. Sounds a lot, but we get through an awful lot of tomatoes, in salads, soup, pizza sauce, pasta sauces and probably other things too. All close to 1.8m (6′) tall. Not too many looking ripe yet, but that will come soon.

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Getting my bandsaw to cut straight

Well, not my bandsaw. My father-in-law’s. But I probably use it the most.

He bought it years ago and has used it for all sorts of stuff that probably wasn’t ideal when we didn’t have a chop saw/mitre saw. Then I started using it a bit more and noticed a few problems. The whole saw wobbled because one leg of the stand seems to be too short. The table tipped “backwards” away from the blade, so cuts always went further into the wood on the bottom surface than the top. The lock on the lower door has also fallen apart. I keep that close with a small wooden wedge. Possibly not Health and Safety-friendly, but it does the job. Given that my father-in-law installed a set of grinding wheels right over where he stores petrol for the mower, I think H&S would probably have had a heart attack before they got anywhere near the bandsaw should they have foolishly decided to visit.

Then one of the blade bearings blew itself to smithereenys and I decided that I’d replace them all and fix some of the other issues whilst I was at it.

Since then however I’ve been unable to get the saw to stop a cut “drifting” to the left (or the workpiece moving to the right, whichever you prefer). So last night I sat down and watched a load of videos on that YouTube about setting up bandsaws to see if I could get it sorted. I came up with a few possible causes:

  • Blunt/damaged/worn-out blade
  • Misaligned fence
  • Blade not sitting correctly on the crown of the top wheel
  • Misaliged table
  • Blade tension

I knew the blade was good because it was only replaced recently, so I didn’t worry about that. Same for the blade tension, which I checked when I put the blade on.

Fence alignment to the blade is a bit awkward to check because of the set of the teeth. I believe some vendors produce a tool to help with that, but I don’t have one. Instead, I moved the fence over to one of the mitre slots and adjusted it to line up with the mitre slot. If I get the table square later, then I should be good.

The blade was clearly sitting too far forward on the top wheel, so I adjusted the wheel to get the correct positioning as close as I could tell, turned the wheel a few times by hand to make sure the blade wasn’t moving about wildly and then started up the saw for a few seconds. The blade still looked nicely-seated, so I was happy with that.

All these things made no improvement at all ๐Ÿ™ A test cut still showed the cut drifting to my left. So, to table alignment. I released the four bolts holding the table to the tilt mechanism and discovered that there’s really not a whole lot of adjustment, but I did my best, rotating the table clockwise from above because the cut was drifting left. For a rightwards drift I’ve have gone anti-clockwise. Whilst holding the table so it couldn’t move back, I nipped up a couple of the bolts to keep it in place and then did all four back up properly.

This time I had more success. A test cut appeared to go in a nice straight line, so until I find out otherwise I’m going to call the problem fixed.

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At last a use for my scrap ply

After making a few clearer boards and suchlike for my beehives this winter I’ve ended up with quite a lot of small pieces of ply that I’ve kept because they’re actually quite decent quality and I’d prefer not to put them in the wood-burner or anything like that.

Much as I dislike using plastic, I’ve not found an entirely brilliant alternative to plastic plant labels as yet. Lolly sticks are a possibility that I might try, but I’m not sure they’ll stand up to being outdoors for very long. I therefore use the plastic ones, but try to re-use as many as possible from year to year. The writing on the labels isn’t always easy to clean off, so I just leave it on and use them for the same things each time.

When you have hundreds of labels however, finding the one you’re after is a bit of a pain. Earlier this year I split them into separate small plant pots alphabetically, so cabbage, calabrese and carrot labels are in a “C” pot, and pea, pepper and parsley seeds are in a “P” pot. That works ok and speeds up finding the right label, but the pots often fall over or get caught on things and it’s all a bit more awkward than I’d like.

So, today as I was walking past this bucket of ply offcuts for the umpteen-hundredth time, I thought “Hmmmm”. A few hours later, this was born.

I’m hoping it will do the job at keeping the labels organised and be more stable. We shall see.

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Memory Lane, 22nd July 2022: Give peas a chance

Last of the fresh peas for this season ๐Ÿ™

But I have saved pods from a couple of varieties to sow again next year. The mangetout dry quite quickly

The podding peas, not so much.

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I think something died in the workshop

There’s certainly a strange smell in there. I think it could be a mouse. Or possibly a squirrel.

What definitely has died are two of the LED striplights that I bought a couple of years ago. They’re quite common on that south American river shopping place: 40W 4′-ish LED batten lights that run on 240V without an external transformer. They’re very bright and quite low-profile, so handy in a workshop. In that respect they’re much better than the fluorescent tubes I had previously. Unfortunately they don’t seem very reliable.

I’ve replaced three so far that started flickering and eventually died after I’d ignored them for long enough and a fourth flickers very badly when I start up my table saw, though appears to be fine the rest of the time. Fortunately I’ve had a few replacements from the vendor, but it’s still a pain.

After replacing one this morning I decided to open it up to see what was inside. Not very much is the answer.

I’m guessing that what we have there is a low power transformer and rectification circuit. Actually, two of them, one for each strip of LEDs that make up the light. There’s no sign of component failure that I can see and it’s a bit of a mystery still that both strips of LEDs can fail in the same way at the same time, but I suspect the electrolytic capacitors (the purple components) are most likely to blame.

I bent them upwards so I could see the spec.

100V 68ยตF. I can order a few of those and swap them to see what happens. Shouldn’t be expensive.

Moving them also revealed what I think is likely to be a surface-mount bridge rectifier, but I’m unable to make out the part number because the printing is quite faint.

More on this when I get hold of the capacitors.

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It’s the end of the anemometer as we know it…

We’ve had really quite cold north-easterly winds for the last few days, and fairly strong with it as there’s absolutely nothing at all to provide shelter from that direction. I noticed the anemometer for my weather station was looking a bit lop-sided yesterday, but it was still spinning too fast to be able to see what was going on. Today the wind has subsided somewhat, which is much more pleasant and allowed me to get out and get some pictures.

Enlarged, if it’s not clear from that:

I’ve always fancied building a solid state anemometer, so perhaps now is the time. Or perhaps I’ll just rebuild a new spinny one. 3d-printing replacement parts surely shouldn’t be that hard?

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Memory Lane, 21st July 2022: A tale of two garlics

Towards the end of 2021 I planted garlic cloves out in the main vegetable plot as well as in the polytunnel beds so I could compare how they did.

Not very well was the answer in the case of the outdoor ones. They ended up being very heavily affected by rust, despite me clipping off the diseased leaves when I saw them. Now I’ve harvested both lots, this is how they look.

Outdoor garlic on the left, polytunnel garlic on the right. There really is no comparison. I suspect the reduced foliage didn’t help the outdoor ones in addition to whatever damage the rust did. I don’t know why it happened so badly this year. It’s not a problem I’ve ever had before. In the future it’s going to be polytunnel/greenhouse only. I reckon I can get away with planting the cloves near the edge of the beds so they can be removed without too much disturbance to any of the other plants.

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A bit agricultural?

Thanks to the new lathe that is occupying space in the workshop I have been trying to shift things around a bit to make some more space to work, including moving some to the centre of the room to allow easier access to the storage around the walls. That meant moving this beastie out of the centre.

It’s a Lister CS5/1 that I’ve had hiding in plain sight for a few years now. I originally got it for a project I had planned that ended up going in a different direction, but it’s such a lovely little engine that I couldn’t part with it. I do have both the flywheels, but this photo was taken after I’d removed one of them as the engine is almost impossible for one person to move otherwise. I’d not be surprised if each of the wheels weighed around 45kg so it’s quite hard to “walk” across the floor when they’re both installed.

I noticed there was a date of manufacture on the casing. It had it’s eightieth birthday two and a half weeks ago.

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