Astro EQ conversion of EQ3-2 (part 2)

I ordered some aluminium channel (1″x2″x1/8″) to make up the RA motor mount which arrived yesterday. I chose this size because there’s only one mounting hole for each of the normal aftermarket motors on the EQ3-2 and this would give me a reasonable spacing between the pulleys whilst allowing one edge to be flush with the back edge of the RA gear housing so that even with just one bolt holding it in place the mount won’t turn. I cut the metal to fit and drilled a hole to take the bolt in the back, matching up with a larger access hole in the front.

The DEC motor mount is a piece of 2″x2″x3/16″ aluminium angle that I found lying about in the workshop.  That I cut so it could use the existing motor mounting lug, but again fit flush against the mount body to prevent it turning.  I’ve not drilled it to fit yet however, as I want to see how the pulleys will line up first.  Once I know where everything is going to fit I might well cut it down so it isn’t quite as bulky.  Here you can see the RA mount in place with the DEC just resting where it will eventually go:

astro-eq-03

 

With the RA mount in place I could work out what sort of spacing I’d have for the pulleys and therefore what sizes I could use.  I’m going to use MXL belts and was tempted to go for a 12 tooth pulley driving a 48 tooth to give a nice round 4:1 reduction, but the 12 tooth pulley would need drilling out a little to fit the motor spindle.  As doing so would leave very little meat on the pulley boss, I instead opted for a 16 tooth pulley and a 3:1 reduction ratio.  With a 75 tooth belt that gives me 42mm spacing between centres which works out nicely.  I’ve ordered the belts and pulleys and will cut the holes for the motors once they arrive and I can check exact spacings.

I’m thinking that I might need to cut away some of the back face of the channel for the RA motor mount to give a bit more room for the pulleys and belt, but I’ll see how things work out once they arrive.

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MythTV upgrade to 0.27

Everyone else is away for a couple of days so I took the opportunity to upgrade our Mythbuntu installation from 0.26 to 0.27 last night.  It turned out much simpler than I expected.  We have a backend and several frontends, so I downloaded the latest Mythbuntu to reinstall the frontends (I wanted to convert one of them to use an SSD anyhow, so reinstallation was the easiest way to deal with it), but for the backend I wanted to upgrade the system in place.

After backing up the database all I needed to do was to add the 0.27 repository in /etc/apt/sources.d and then:

# apt-get update
# apt-get dist-upgrade

and reboot. Everything came back very happily, the frontends talk to it without a problem, the web interface works and for the first time in a while I can connect from my desktop (which was reinstalled with Mint17 some time ago).

The only remaining problems I have are that the picture on one of the televisions is a little too wide which I think might be down to the nVidia driver on that frontend, and the frontends don’t shut down when requested which I’m sure I’ve fixed before, but for the moment I can’t recall how.

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Astro EQ conversion of EQ3-2

I decided today that it’s about time I extracted a digit and got on with converting my old EQ3-2 “Sky Scan 2001” mount to GOTO using Tom Carpenter’s rather nice AstroEQ box.

astro-eq-01

Although I already have the aftermarket motors fitted, my plan is to remove those and replace them with new stepper motors which should give me faster slew speeds and hopefully a more compact design, making the entire mount more suited to taking on holiday (which is the eventual goal).  To that ends I’ve already bought a couple of these stepper motors from Zapp Automation.

astro-eq-02

They’re the SY28STH45-0674A model (currently here), which should be good for pretty much anything that’s going to be stable on the mount.  The next step is to make up the brackets for mounting the motors which is going to be a little tricky with the EQ3-2 as there aren’t many suitable places for putting the motors, especially as I want to add a belt drive to the worms to further reduce the drive ratios.  I’ve ordered some bits of aluminium to make up the mounts and once that’s done I can see what space there is for gears and belts.  I’d like to have a nice round number ratio between the pulleys of either 12:48 or 15:60, but it depends what space is available.  Tom has reported good results with a three and two-thirds drive reduction as far as I recall, so it won’t be the end of the world if I can’t get a fit for the gears I want.

I also have some M2.5 8mm bolts on order for mounting the motors and a couple of RJ11 sockets for connecting up the wiring.

I’m looking forward to starting this project now.  Hopefully the parts will arrive soon.

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Shoddy Coronado PST build quality

The constant rain this weekend meant indoor activity was called for, so I started work on my new PST mod to move the BF5 filter closer to the camera in an attempt to reduce or perhaps even completely remove the vignetting that’s often a problem when imaging with this scope. More detail on that in another post, but in simple terms my plan was to remove the BF5 unit entire and make up a spacer to trap it against the casing of my ASI120MM when the 1.25″ nosepiece is screwed in.

So I turned up the spacer from a piece of aluminium and when testing it for final fit, noticed something rather odd about the BF5 housing. Here’s a picture of it. Apologies for the poor quality. My compact camera isn’t great at these sorts of photos.

pst-eph-14

The design of the PST is such that the filter is barely big enough for the part of the light cone corresponding to the image of the Sun to fit through that 5mm hole and comments about vignetting when attempting to image with the PST are common. It’s really very tight, which means the construction needs to be quite accurate for it to work. But look again at the picture. Notice that the inner section is not actually concentric with the outside? The hole is central and the filter will sit central, but the retaining ring won’t be. Which means the two holes won’t line up. Measuring the difference I reckon that the hole in the retaining ring ends up about 1/6th of its width off the optical axis. And indeed when I reassemble the two parts without the BF5 in place it’s quite obvious that they don’t line up. I can’t see any way that isn’t going to have a noticeable effect on the image.

Fortunately I have a second unit (I use one with a diagonal for visual, and one “straight through” for imaging). When I took that apart it was nowhere near as bad, though hardly perfect by the standards of industrial production. I also noticed quite a significant difference with the BF5 itself. The second one was very cleanly cut with nice square edges all around. The first one looks like this:

pst-eph-08

All the “back” edges of the filter are damaged.

The worst thing about this is that unless you take apart all sorts of bits that Meade/Coronado never meant you to (because it’s all glued together with threadlock and takes some work to get apart), you can never find out these problems exist. How many people are not getting the performance they should from their PST because of problems they’re totally unable to diagnose, I wonder?

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Swimming pool solar heating system

When we bought our current house quite some years ago, it had a reasonable size “in ground” swimming pool that was suffering a bit from lack of maintenance.  The re-made ground around the pool had settled over the years and many of the paving slabs laid on it had cracked, one of the skimmers had twisted and cracked for the same reason and leaked water from the pool, the pump bearings were shot and the heating system (which involved pumping the pool water through thirty-odd lengths of black hose mounted on a barn roof) didn’t work at all well.  The pool liner was also in need of replacement.

Some would question the sanity of an outdoor pool in the UK and I’d not necessarily disagree with them, but since it’s there we used it for a while until the pump had really had enough and then I decided to set about returning the pool to a decent state.  The first job was to replace the liner and put in a new skimmer to replace the cracked one.  It wasn’t until the liner was removed that I discovered the rendered inner face of the pool structure had also broken up in places and without the weight of the water was actually leaking groundwater into the pool.  Fixing that took some time as I ended up having to chop out lots of the collapsed rubble, build up the structure with concrete and then render over the top again, all whilst water was still trying to get in.  I put in some field drains around the outside of the pool which helped to control the water a little, but it didn’t entirely stop it. Here’s how it looked when I started:

pool-1

And after I’d made good the broken area:

pool-2

And with the new liner:

pool-3

That done I replaced the pump and then set about re-laying all of the slabs, making up the ground underneath properly and replacing the broken ones.  Having done a few other bits of maintenance the pool has actually seen a fair bit of use unheated this summer, but only because it’s been warm enough to heat the water in the pool directly.

The next stage is to build some more effective heating system for the pool water. Originally the pool water could be pumped through about thirty black pipes on the roof of a barn to heat the water, but the system leaked and never worked to my satisfaction. One of the major problems in replacing it however is that chlorinated water isn’t good to mix with copper pipework, so I’d have to do everything in ABS or stainless steel (the latter being far too expensive and too hard to work with).

Finally I decided to build a heat-exchange system, allowing me to keep the pool water in plastic pipe and use copper for the rest. The idea is to have an in-ground (for insulation) reservoir of water that is heated using flat-plate solar panels that I shall build myself. Water from the pool will then be run through that reservoir in small diameter pipes, being heated as it goes. The reservoir itself will be made of a concrete base with concrete block walls, waterproofed and insulated on all sides.

I’ve now completed the first stage — building the reservoir and space for the pumps:

heat-reservoir-01

heat-reservoir-02

The larger section, about 1.2m by 0.9m by 4m will be waterproofed and insulated before being filled with water. The smaller section will hold the pumps. Fitting the waterproofing and insulation will be the next step.

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Coronado PST eyepiece holder disassembly part 2

I got brave this evening and disassembled the eyepiece holder to the point I’d reached as described a few days ago. I then examined the BF5 housing and decided that it appeared to fit into the eyepiece holder from the top. This seemed counter-intuitive given the design of the lower half of the holder which appears to be intended to trap the housing against the upper half. Anyhow, as there was no obvious means to gain purchase on the housing to turn it, I thought I’d give it a bit of a push up through the holder to see if anything happened.

Somewhat unbelievably given that just about everything else that comes apart on the PST is smothered in threadlock, it gave quite easily and I was able to push the housing out of the top of the eyepiece holder, leaving me with this:

pst-eph-12

There’s a flange on the housing that rests on top of a shoulder inside the eyepiece holder. Interestingly, the flange is quite a snug fit in the bottom of the holder whereas it’s very loose at the top, so the inside of the holder must be tapered.

So, my plan is now to turn a retaining ring with a T2 thread on the outside and either a 1,.25″ nosepiece or a thread to fit the lower half of the eyepiece holder on the inside, with a shoulder to hold the entire BF5 unit central in the ASI120 thus:

pst-eph-13

The measurements I’ve taken from the camera and BF5 unit are:

ASI120 sensor to flange: 12.5mm
ASI120 flange to case: 7.5mm
ASI120 sensor to case: 5mm
BF5 housing depth: 8.5mm
BF5 retaining ring thickness: 2mm

This would give a “sensor to front of BF5” distance of 11.5mm. That’s 0.4mm more than I think I need to get an image with no vignetting, but perhaps worth a go nonetheless. If I drill the retaining ring out to 5.5mm then it will hopefully mean that any vignetting occurs at the edges of the sensor and doesn’t affect the actual image of the Sun.

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When life gives you lemons, make lemonade

But when it gives you apples, make cider…

And to that ends I’ve just taken delivery of a new apple “scratter” for pulping apples before pressing them to extract the juice.  I used to use a manual crusher, but it’s a slow process when you want to try to press a large volume of apples and something of a slog to do by oneself, hence the move to automation.  It’s really not much more than a standard garden shredder with some of the parts replaced by stainless steel, as iron and steel will react with apple juice and turn it black.

apple-mill

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Coronado PST eyepiece holder disassembly

Following on from my thoughts that I might have to move the blocking filter on my modded PST closer to the camera sensor, I decided to take it apart to see what I might be dealing with.  Though I’ve got rid of the “black box” on mine, the holder is still exactly as it came off:

pst-eph-01First step was to split the barrel into its two component parts.  Easier said than done.  Everything is welded together with thread-lock and it just didn’t want to budge.  By coincidence I had some large soft rubber tree ties arrive this afternoon and by wrapping one around each half of the barrel I was eventually able to get them to turn without having to resort to tools.  This is the inside of the bottom half.  Despite the fact that it cannot have been apart since it was assembled at Meade’s factory, the inner face of the ITF was disgustingly dusty.  So bad, in fact, that I think it’s quite clear even in this photo.

pst-eph-02

 

And the top half, with the retaining ring for the BF5 blocking filter visible:

pst-eph-03I unscrewed the retaining ring to find that the filter is actually a block of material rather than a sheet as I was expecting:

pst-eph-04It’s loose, just sitting in a slight circular depression inside the body:

pst-eph-05Apologies for the quality of these next few pictures.  I forgot how poor the digital macro is on the camera I was using.  These show three views of the blocking filter.  You can see how raw the back (camera side, rather than objective side) edges of the filter are 🙁

pst-eph-06 pst-eph-07 pst-eph-08There were some large dust particles on the gold face of the filter, too.  I took the opportunity to clean the faces, but I think perhaps it’s partially scratched (again, how?  It’s never been opened since it left the factory).

It seemed to make sense to have a go at cleaning the ITF too, so I unscrewed the ITF body from the bottom section of the eyepiece holder:

pst-eph-09It’s threaded, but also held in with some nasty rubbery adhesive as well.  The “inside” of the ITF unit has a retaining ring in, so I also removed that and dropped out the ITF itself:

pst-eph-10Another poor photo, but there’s some writing on the side:

pst-eph-11The ITF is “outside up” in this photo.  The upper face goes towards the objective.  I gave the ITF a light clean with a microfibre cloth and left things there.

I estimate that the blocking filter is about 4mm thick.  I measured across the sides with vernier calipers and they were 6mm, but I wasn’t going to touch either optical face.  Allowing 2mm for the retaining ring and another 2mm for the housing, that doesn’t leave me with much to play with if I want to have the filter no more than 11.1mm from the sensor to avoid vignetting.  I’m going to have to give this a fair bit of thought, I think.  Worth it, given that the alternative is probably $500-worth of BF-10 diagonal 🙁

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Another possible PST mod

My PST has been repeatedly modded and now looks like this:

adaptor-fitted

(though now with the addition of a motor to the focuser.)

I have been pondering of late however on the amount of vignetting that occurs when imaging and what might be done about it.

Looking up the maximum angular diameter of the Sun, I calculate that the maximum size of the solar disc on the camera sensor with this scope as about 3.8mm.  Say 4mm to allow for proms.  The BF5 blocking filter is about 45mm in front of the camera sensor in the optical train.  I calculate that in order to achieve an image with no vignetting at that point, the actual diameter of the filter would need to be about 8.05mm.

So, I’m thinking about possibly taking the eyepiece holder apart and making up an adapter with an M42 (T2) external thread to fit a camera that can hold the lens very close to the camera sensor.  The lower section of the eyepiece holder with the mini-ERF would then have to fit to the front of that.  I’d also need to extend the optical train in front of the ERF by the same amount as I’d removed by placing the filter and ERF so close to the eyepiece.

My calculations suggest that a 5mm filter needs to be at most 11mm from the sensor to give a view without vignetting.  I’m told that it may also be possible to open the filter out to 6mm, in which case I can probably go to 22mm from the sensor.

First however I need to defeat all the threadlock that’s liberally splashed over the inside of the eyepiece holder so I can take it apart and get all the filters out.

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FireWire/IIDC over USB camera support in oaCapture

I’ve had a cheap little Point Grey monochrome USB Firefly MV camera sitting about for some time. I don’t know if they’re still around, but they used to sell on ebay for not very much. Point Grey are one of the enlightened camera vendors who provide an SDK and plenty of examples of how to use their cameras, including on Linux.

What I realised shortly after starting to read through the documentation however was that the Firefly MV and the Chameleon USB cameras actually implement the IIDC protocol (basically the IEEE1394 protocol used for FireWire cameras) over USB. As there’s already a library for Linux implementing that protocol and supporting these cameras over USB, it seemed sensible to use it, particularly as the code would them port directly to OSX.

So, a little coding later and I now have support for these two Point Grey cameras in oacapture:

firefly

firefly

There are a couple of unexpected bonuses, too.

The Atik GP camera is in fact a Point Grey Chameleon in a different skin. A chameleon twice over, no less. I therefore believe that it should also work with oaCapture. In fact, there are quite a few USB cameras implementing the IIDC protocol from the likes of Basler, IDS, Imaging Source, Leopard, Lumenera, Point Grey and Ximea. These all stand a chance of working though the IEEE1394 library may need tweaking to recognise them.

The second bonus is that FireWire cameras may also work out of the box. I have absolutely nothing to test with in this instance though, so I really can’t be sure. I’m trying to find a cheap FireWire camera for that purpose.

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